How-tos and Procedures

I hate to do this, but......
Disclaimer: This information is provided as a guide. Check, recheck, and check again before attempting any modifications. I am a shadetree mechanic, and some of these are shadetree (not shady) procedures. What works for me, may not work for you. If you don't like the way I do things - too bad. There are certain risks involved in any modification. I am not responsible for any damage caused by these procedures, blah, blah. Oh, and my lawyer can beat up your lawyer. So thbbbbt.

Some assembly required...

This page contains how-tos on some of the mods I have done. Check the Mods pages for general descriptions on these mods.

APR Performance Snub Mount Install

The mount comes with instructions that look as though they have been copied too many times. The pictures are dark and unclear, and are of a S4 installation. Color pictures with more detail on the APR web site would be a definate plus (hint hint)

Total install time: just under 2 hours, and that includes pulling the snub mount off again, and putting it on the correct way. A couple of people on the Audiworld forums have said that you don't have to remove the bumper, etc. to install the mount. Then I read the posts about people saying they hacked the crap out of the old mount, and the new one won't go back in when trying to take this "shortcut" Do yourself a favor, and follow the instructions. 2 hours is no big deal. Take your time.

Here are the steps from the instructions (without permission, I did not ask, but everyone should know what they are getting into), and my comments in ( )

Tools required:
Short flat-head screwdriver
T-25 Torx socket
T-30 Torx socket
T-45 Torx socket
6mm Allen Socket (I used a long Allen key)
2 - 1 Gallon containers to drain off windshield washer fluid
Ratchet and short extension.
(Silicone o-ring lubricant or suitable substitute - see text)
(13 mm wrench for engine mount housing - see text)

Step 1: Park car
Step 2: Place car on lift or jack stands and open hood (I used a pair of ramps under the front wheels)
Step 3: Remove all retaining screws securing the under tray: 10 total (mine had only 6, it was missing 4)
Step 4: Remove lower bumper inserts next to fog lights by pulling forward firmly but gently at the center (There was tab on mine that you had to pull and the grill would come out. One side the tab had broken off, so I had to use Mr. Screwdriver)
Step 5: Remove front weather stripping from engine bay
Step 6: Remove bumper retainer bolts located near fog lights (Two Allen-head bolts, one on each side)
Step 7: Remove inner fender well screw from bumper located in wheel well (There are 3 scres on each side, you only need to remove the bottom one)
Step 8: Firmly pull bumper up and out of retaining clips (Make sure you remove the screws in step 7, don't leave one :) I have found it is easier to push down and out on the bumper ends to remove)
Step 9: Remove clip and disconnect washer fluid line, draining fluid into 1-gallon container(s)
Step 10: Disconnect fog light plugs on either side of bumper (if so equipped) and remove bumper (I don't have bumper mounted fogs)
Step 11: Remove screws in fenders from upper radiator support (2 screws on each side)
Step 12: Remove intercooler shrouds to ease movement (I didn't do this)
Step 13: Unbolt bumper shocks, leaving 10mm nuts in place (I had 3 bolts on one side, and 4 on the other)
Step 14: Remove radiator support screw from side of fenders below turn signals (1 on each side)
Step 15: Pull radiator support forward enough to access existing front motor mount (BE CAREFUL)
Step 16: Remove existing front motor mount by pulling it off the support spindle.
Step 17: Apply a silicone o-ring lubricant or suitable substitute to the spindle and mount to ease installation of the new mount (Damn, I was fresh out. Why wasn't this listed in the Tools required?)
Step 18: Align the mount on spindle paying particular attention to placement of the lip inside the mount. It should be positioned as the stock mount was. (The mounts have a lip inside towards one end - this goes towards the front of the car, at least it did on mine. If you can, measure the distance to the inside lip, and mark the same distance on the spindle. This will let you know when the mount is fully seated)
(Step 18b: If you can't get the mount in, remove the three bolts that hold the "snub mount shroud" to the engine. Slide the "shroud" back on the spindle, and put the mount on, then slide the "shroud" back over the mount)
Step 19: Gently but firmly press against the radiator support to seat the mount on the spindle, paying attention not to damage any air conditioning or cooling accessories. (Right. Several whacks with a hammer later, and I decided there had to be a better way - other than driving into a tree. Take two of the bumper shock bolts, and put one back in on each side. Slowly tighten them down as evenly as you can. This should get the mount almost all the way on. Use a screwdriver between the mount and the engine (with the shroud removed) Unfortunately, it wont just "pop" into place. If you measured and marked the lip position, you'll know when its on.)
Step 20: Reinstall all parts in the reverse order of their disassembly, remembering to top off washer fluid.

Note - In order to reduce vibration, loosen the motor mount shroud and start the vehicle. If the vehicle is on a lift, or if all wheels are off the ground, allow the car to idle in gear for a moment. If raising the wheels is a problem, allow the car to idle in neutral for a moment. This allows the mount to center itself. Check that the mount is centered and retighten the motor mount. (Before I put the bumper back on, I loosened the housing, and drove down the block and back slowly, then tightened the housing.)

(End of instructions)

Install Notes, Tips, and Problems Encountered:
There is a great FAQ-in-progress on how to remove the front bumper on Audiworld. Check it out here: Removing Front Bumper FAQ

If you end up with a full body massage at idle (like I did originally), then the mount is not installed right.
I contacted APR about it, and this is what they said:
"What you need to do is this, put the car up again and losen the mount. With the mount losened, move the mount around so the mlunt is clear of everything. You should not have any vibration in the steering wheel if the mount is correctly installed. If worse comes to worse you can grind some off."

After talking with APR, they thought the mount might be backwards, or not on all the way. I confirmed with them that the lip inside the mount should be closest to the front (which is the way I had it).
I pulled it all back apart, and marked the current position of the mount on the spindle, and removed the mount. I measured the distance from the middle of the lip to the face of the mount with a set of calipers and came up with 0.61" I then scribed a line 0.61" from the middle of the groove on the spindle so I knew where the mount should be position. I was about 1/8" off.
I put everything back together. I originally said that I put the bolts back in the bumper support, and tightened them up to get the mount on the spindle. I did the same, but found that this did not put the mount where it should be. It was about 1/8" off....Hmmm, so that's what I did wrong. I then used a screwdriver between the engine and the mount to pry the mount further on the spindle to where it should be.

This got rid of the car vibe, but not the steering wheel vibe. I have tried to readjust with no luck. Someone on Audiworld said they found that with the mount on the spindle, it expands slightly so it becomes a tight fit on the shroud, so he ground a little (about 1mm) until the shroud fit over the mount easier and his vibes went away
So I tried this, and sure enough, the vibe is gone at idle. I have a buzz at freeway speeds, but I don't know if it is because of the APR mount, or something else.

Electric Fan Install
Turbo5 offers an electric fan kit, which is where I got this idea. I knew I could replicate it for at least half the cost, so I searched Audiworld for some more info. Others have done this, and there are two ways to do it:
1. Put a plate in place of the fan so the pulley stays there (keeping the stock belt)
2. Remove the pulley and get a shorter belt
I chose the latter since it removed one more source of drag (although very little) on the belt, and it gave me more depth to fit the fan in. Plus I needed a new belt anyways, and it saved me from having to make a plate.
The Turbo5 kit includes a plate to replace the fan, keeping the stock belt. If you're looking for a complete kit, with a better fan (It's a SPAL fan) for a little more, then you may want to consider the Turbo5 kit, otherwise, read on.

The stock auxillary electric fan is a two speed setup, running low speed at 87C (189F) and high speed at 99C (210F). It also comes on whenever the A/C is switched on.
I just tapped into it's power supply, so now both fans run at the same time (still a two speed setup).

Parts needed:
1. New accessory belt. I measured and found I needed a 46" belt. So I went down to the local Pep Boys and they said they had a 45.5", but no 46" belts. I thought it would work. It didn't. Too short. So I had to go back (20 min drive one way) Guess what, they did have a 46" belt. I grabbed it, plus the next size up - 47.5" just in case. The 46" went on, but wouldn't fit under the tensioner. The 47.5" works OK, but is a little large. A 47" belt would probably be perfect.
2. 17mm wrench to remove the accesory belt
3. A hard small rod (I used a drill bit) and allen wrench to remove the fan and pulley assembly.
4. 10mm wrench
5. Electric fan that will fit (depth is an issue)
6. 12 gauge wire (black and red), roughly 4 foot

You will need to remove the bumper. Check out the Removing Front Bumper FAQ on audiworld for that.
Use a 17mm wrench to remove the tension on the belt, and remove it.
Remove the fan and pulley. There is an allen head bolt behind the pulley. You need to lock the pulley by inserting a HARD rod from the back of the pulley mount into the holes on the pulley. Don't use bolts, they just bend. Drill bits are really hard, and my dad had a ton of them, so that's what I used.
Then you need to remove the condensor. Remove the plastic flaps on each side held in with one phillips head screw. Remove the four 10mm bolts -two on each side. Pull the top of the condensor out a little, and then pull the condensor up. Be careful not to break the lines to the condensor.
Put the fan up against the radiator (inside the shroud) and shine a bright light through so you can see where to insert the pull-through strips on the other side. Make sure you use the foam pads.
With the fan mounted, you need to wire it up. Remove the cap (in pic) The biege connector is the one you want. Red is +12V, and brown is ground. Wire in your fan, and wrap electrical tape around it. Use zip ties to keep the wires from rubbing the belt or the fan.
Cap over connections Connection to tap into
Put the new accessory belt on and put everything back together.
With the car running, if you turn on the A/C, both fans should come on (high speed I think)
If that is successful, turn the A/C off, and let the car idle and warm up. Watch the temp gauge. The fans should kick on when the temp gauge hits halfway.
As cold as it is in Michigan, it took 20 minutes to warmup before the fans turned on low speed (I was getting worried)

Make your own free website on